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Riding the ‘Other’ Cape: Cape Ann

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Riding the ‘Other’ Cape: Cape Ann Riding the ‘Other’ Cape: Cape Ann

Riding the ‘Other’ Cape: Cape Ann






Mid-morning sun warms Kettle Cove at low tide. Photos by the author.
When New Englanders talk of “The Cape,” typically they mean Cape Cod, the flexing arm of Massachusetts that reaches from the South Shore into the Atlantic. But there?s another peninsula jutting into the Atlantic off the North Shore: Cape Ann. Here you?ll find “America?s Oldest Seaport,” scenic beaches, fresh seafood, stunning vistas and narrow, winding roads connecting it all.
A map of the route taken, by Bill Tipton/compartmaps.com.
The ride begins on State Route 127 in Beverly. You pass the oceanfront campus of Endicott College, where my daughter and money are both going. Each July, Endicott?s ocean-front Misselwood Cottage hosts a Concours d?Elegance, an event that may help you source a vintage Rolls-Royce or Duesenberg for the carriage house at your seaside estate.
Homes built on rocks are common on Cape Ann?s coastline. As my wife likes to say, ?That would do.?
As Route 127 winds through Prides Crossing, the region?s rocky geography becomes apparent. Homes are often made with stone, surrounded by stonewalls or built on rock outcroppings. The Singing Beach in Manchester-by-the-Sea presents a fun phenomenon: dry sand that creaks as you walk on it.
In Manchester-by-the-Sea, the lobster boat Diana Lee rests on stands in a yard. After a long Cape Ann winter, it should be back on the water soon.
In Kettle Cove Village, turn right onto Ocean Street to hug the shoreline along White Beach and then Black Beach before rejoining 127. In Magnolia, a right off 127 onto Shore Road takes you past some of Cape Ann?s grandest homes and stunning ocean vistas. The views certainly beat the road. I encountered one section with potholes that could swallow a Buick. “I like the bumps,” a cheerful old woman in front of her home told me. “It keeps people from passing through.” Guess I missed that memo, ma?am. The elderly woman whose house commands this view came outside. I said, ?Sure is beautiful here.? She replied, ?The only way I?ll ever leave is in a pine box.?
Beyond those bumps I returned to 127 and found Hammond Castle, where a museum displays inventions of John Hays Hammond, Jr. (1888-1965). Hammond held more than 400 patents, many related to radio remote control. You might thank him next time you change channels from the couch.
Gloucester (natives say “GLOSS-tuh”) calls itself “America?s Oldest Seaport.” Settled by English immigrants in 1623, Gloucester rises above a natural harbor. For nearly four centuries, fishing has been the community?s lifeblood. It?s so engrained in local culture, Gloucester?s high school sports teams are called the Fishermen. An easy self-guided walk (less than 2 miles) takes you through Gloucester?s working waterfront and historic downtown. There?s way more than you can glimpse–or eat–riding by.
Stalwartly facing Western Harbor are two memorials to remind passersby that fishing at ...
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Riding the ‘Other’ Cape: Cape Ann Riding the ‘Other’ Cape: Cape Ann

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Fuente de la noticia: ridermagazine
Fecha de publicación: 12-03-2019 21:22
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